Saptamana modei din New York: intalniti cele mai emotionante etichete tinere din primavara anului 2017

Marele lucru din New York este ca lucruri interesante se intampla atat deasupra cat si sub pamant. Cand vine vorba de moda, avem designeri „in subteran” precum Vaquera, Matthew Adams Dolan si LRS care „fac tot felul de moda de ura”, iar apoi avem ceea ce putem descrie drept designeri emergenti, barbati si femei ale caror etichete sunt pe este un semn bun ca talente la fel de diferite ca acestea pot coexista mai mult sau mai putin armonios alaturi de nume cu adevarat mari in timpul Saptamanii modei din New York si sa prezinte o vitrina colorata a stilului care este singular american si de New York City.

Pentru primavara 2017, cele mai interesante etichete tinere de pe scena sunt Ph5, Colovos si Namilia. publi escorte sibiu games.lynms.edu.hk Designerii Ph5 sunt doi scioni de moda chinezi din a doua generatie care au crescut in fabricile parintilor lor. Intre timp, echipa sot-sotie din spatele lui Colovos a petrecut opt ​​ani in industrie ca directori creativi la Helmut Lang. Apoi, este Namilia, alcatuita din doi germani care plictisesc jale, unul un designer Yeezy sezonul 4 si celalalt la fel de obsedat de cultura populara americana. site-uri de escorte dermatologyassociation.com Impreuna, aceste trei noi etichete adauga o moda originala, ingenioasa si, la fel de importanta, o moda distractiva unui calendar plin de gemuri care are mare nevoie de voci noi si prospere.

Namilia

Nan Li, 27 de ani si Emilia Pfohl, 28 de ani, descriu noul lor nume de nume Namilia drept „couture merch”, si nu fac decat sa glumeasca. Cu sediul din Berlin, Germania, duo s-a intalnit in timpul finalizarii licentei la Universitatea Artelor si la scurt timp dupa a creat prima colectie, „Pasaria mea, alegerea mea”, care a prezentat referinte la idoli pop feminin, inclusiv Nicki Minaj, Rihanna si Miley Cyrus. escorte vilcea www.mediareference.com Evident, a fost decupat de VFiles intr-o clipa. Colectia pe care o vor arata sambata la Skylight Clarkson va fi Li si Pfohl a treia sub eticheta lor, dar este primul mare show solo al marcii din New York. De asemenea, Li a lucrat simultan ca freelancer la Yeezy Sezonul 4, care s-a dovedit o inspiratie excelenta pentru propria sa lucrare cu Pfohl. escorte bucurrsti waterwayssurfadv.com

„Este vorba despre ceea ce inseamna pentru noi puterea fetei, feminismul si cultura tineretului”, a spus el despre vesmintele sezonului, care au fost acoperite cu holograme de plans Leonardo DiCaprio, Justin Bieber tipareste fotografiate pe corpul lui Isus si Zayn Malik rapit de straini, plus sclipitor patch-uri de Donald Trump in robie S&M. In ansamblu, colectia este o abordare a unei persoane externe asupra vointei Americii de a amesteca religie, celebritate si politica. “Pentru noi, europenii, totul pare o gluma, dar de fapt este infricosator!” A spus Pfohl. escorte mature arges efonecardusa.com Pe langa imprimeuri pline de umor, hainele au si referinte mai intunecate, cum ar fi mastile din piele fara gura menite sa semene cu coroana Statuii Libertatii si cu manecile din dantela victoriene realizate cu latex de prezervativ. Si apoi exista „semnatura” Namilia, care este un sutien in forma de penis.

“Am luat obiectivarea femeilor si am aruncat-o pentru a transforma baietii momentului in lucruri de joaca sexuala”, a spus Li. escorte craiova publi24 careysupport.com „Ne-a interesat cu adevarat puterea fandomului. Am vrut sa valorificam acea energie si sa o transformam intr-o colectie de bande de fete. Asadar, ne-am luat toata puterea departe transformandu-i pe acesti baieti in decoratiuni. escorte galati 2015 entegrisrecycle.com

Fascinatia lui Li pentru cultura populara americana a inceput atunci cand un schimb de studenti l-a trimis la Las Vegas la varsta de 16 ani pentru a trai cu o familie mormona. El a petrecut ultimii 11 ani incercand sa constientizeze experienta.

“In Germania, cultura celebritatilor nu exista cu adevarat”, a spus el. escorte transexuali bucuresti centerpointmississippi.biz „Chiar si cuvantul„ celebritate ”in germana are conotatii usor negative. Deci, pentru noi, este atat de nebun! Lucrez si pentru Yeezy, asa ca am inceput sa o experimentez in viata reala. Ca ieri, am fost in studio si fanii au pornit efectiv un foc pentru a scoate toata lumea din cladire. escorte calimanesti yourtruth.com Kanye a devenit un obiect; oamenii uita ca este o persoana. ”

Li nu a putut explica mai multe despre implicarea sa cu Yeezy, dar echipa lui Kanye il zboara de la Berlin la Calabasas pentru amenajari. Iar cand vine vorba de gandirea creatoare a lui Li cu Namilia, nu exista o reprezentare mai buna a topirii religiei si politicii decat Kanye West – desi rapperul a scapat de includerea in colectie . escorte bucursti marketlink.com .. in acest sezon. escorte 40 ani maps.google.gm



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„Uneori, esti atat de obsedat de idolii tai, incat chiar vrei sa-i omori”, a adaugat Pfohl cu ridicarea din umeri si un zambet.

Colovos

Spre deosebire de majoritatea noilor nume din calendarul oficial al Consiliului designerilor de moda din America in acest sezon, Nicole si Michael Colovos sunt veterani din industrie care si-au inceput de la zero noul brand de nume Colovos. In urma cu doi ani, echipa sot-sotie a parasit Helmut Lang unde au functionat ca regizori creativi pentru un timid de zece ani, construind brandul intr-un punct de lucru corporativ. escorte sibiu video benjaminmackjackson.com „Cand am inceput, a fost in esenta ca sa incepem o marca din nou”, a spus Nicole. „Cu Colovos, suntem o echipa foarte mica, deci este o provocare, dar lucrul bun este ca am facut asta inainte, asa ca stim oarecum exercitiul. Lucram de acasa si avem trei copii, deci lucrurile sunt intotdeauna haotice, dar este placut sa faci lucruri pentru tine. escorte piteati www.takeoneproductions.com

Cand Nicole, originara din Noua Zeelanda, si Michael, care provin din Seattle, au inceput sa intalneasca pentru prima data la New York la sfarsitul anilor 90, Nicole lucra ca redactor de piata si Michael se afla in mijlocul construirii propriului sau brand. Cu toate acestea, s-au inflacarat creativ inca de la inceput si au decis sa lanseze propria lor marca de denim numita Habitual inainte de a face chiar schimburi de juramant.

„Eram tineri si nu stiam cu adevarat in ce ne punem noi insine”, a spus Nicole. escorte braila publi24 bm-he.com Insa brandul a castigat locul doi in cadrul competitiei inaugurale CFDA / Vogue Fashion Fund, desfasurata in 2005.

Astazi, Nicole si Michael sunt capabili sa isi ia timpul cu Colovos, care este in cel de-al treilea sezon. Desi sperau sa faca o prezentare completa pentru primavara, slotul lor de miercuri a fost luat de nimeni altul decat de la sezonul 4 al lui West Yeezy, asa ca au optat pentru numiri in presa privata. escorte cluj k-9ranch.org

„Suntem in mijlocul acestei schimbari masive de industrie in acest moment, asa ca am plecat si am luat ceva timp liber pentru a reveni la ceea ce este cel mai mult iubim despre moda”, a spus Michael la revenirea in calendar. „Imi gasesc din nou pasiunea. Munca noastra este foarte personala – ne place sa proiectam ceea ce nu putem gasi acolo pentru noi insine. escorte din alba rental-ranking.com Am facut aceste colectii uriase, iar acum o facem lent si mic. ”

The Colovos pieces are designed with luxury materials and minimalism in mind; one could find them in the closet of a chic Tribeca mom or a downtown girl who likes to shop at The Line. One dress pattern features a blown-up print of a photograph Michael took in the Christopher street ACE subway tunnel while taking his son to skateboard camp. escorte bucure basesloaded.com

“If you’re going to do minimalism, you also have to have an element of design that makes it notable,” said Michael. “Fast fashion has come in and really monopolized basics. I think Zara does a good job, actually. anuntul escorte vaxholmsstad.info What they don’t do though, and where they can’t compete, is quality. It’s sustainable for your business to make clothes that last.”

Since their time at Lang, the industry has changed considerably. escorte tg mureș fab-things.com But the Colovos couple wanted to wipe the slate clean and see what they could come up with on their own — keeping in mind, however, everything they learned along the way about what can make or break a brand.

“The questions being asked three to four years ago, are still being asked now,” said Nicole. “I don’t really feel like anyone has any more clarification. escorte bucuresti cu preturi traders.education I think delivering fall clothes in June and July is ridiculous, personally. But for us, we’re focusing on making our clothes season-less and throwing in knits and outerwear at the right time of the year.”

At the end of the day, Michael’s summation of the Colovos look rings true for its survival in the fashion industry as a whole: “It’s about finding the balance between too much and not enough. escorte suisse cchassis.com

Ph5

Mijia Zhang, 26, and Wei Lin, 28, both grew up in China surrounded by fashion — Zhang at her family’s knitwear factory outside of Hong Kong, and Lin in her parent’s vintage retail and tailoring shop. The two girls crossed paths years later through a mutual friend, who set them up as roommates in New York’s Financial District.



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Lin, who graduated from Babson College in Massachusetts with a degree in business, was working as a consultant in the area while Zhang was finishing her degree at Parsons School of Design when one day, Lin got a call from her mother telling her the family business was struggling back in China. escorte londra www.sahc.info “Why don’t you come back and see what you can do?” she said.

“I had to think about what the next step was for a knitwear manufacturer,” Lin said. “I knew there were two routes: I could shut down the factory, pack the whole thing up, and move to Southeast Asia and restart. escorte ploiesti vest wordpless.com A lot of my friends who are also second generation did that. Or, I could do what Italian factories do, which is move upstream and build a brand based off of the factory’s capabilities. I chose the second route because I knew that if I moved the factory, not every worker and their family could come with us, and I owe a lot to both my own immediate family and the factory people, who helped support me to go study abroad. escorte brasov anal hawkins-web.com We built this together.”

Lin is a self-described numbers person who wasn’t born with that special “thing” designers have, so she enlisted the help of Zhang, who did her Parsons graduate knitwear collection in Lin’s factory and went on to work for both Christopher Kane and Nike.

“I’m a very nerdy girl,” said Zhang of her designs. escorte de lux targu mures geduldtrading.com “I care about the technology and the craftsmanship behind clothes. And knitwear is all about that — you have to pay attention to each stitch. We do computer programming for the patterns. escorte cluj.ro kk-souther.com Like, it’s coding.”

With knitwear, the more color in a pattern, the more difficult it is to produce. And one of Zhan’s sweaters features around five different colors, splashed together on different translucent panels, each of which took around ten hours to complete. escorte romance palombo.biz Another of her pieces even crashed the program because it was so intricate.

“I think what’s so unique about the brand is that one, Mijia speaks Chinese and can work with technicians who only speak Chinese,” explained Lin. “And two, we actually stay in the factory and work with them long-term on ten to twelve different trials to develop one piece. With a lot of our old factory clients, we would send them a prototype in New York, they make comments, and then send it back. That’s a lot of shipping time and things get lost in translation. That’s why knitwear tends to be a lot safer for brands because it takes a long time. We’re proud that we’re one of the few who can do complicated pieces.”

Azzedine Alaia and Angela Missoni are two knitwear designers who inspire Zhang and Lin, but they’re hoping to reach a different market with Ph5. “I think that for the younger, sportier young profession, we have a place in the market,” said Lin. “Something is missing in that knitwear world.”

“I would be really happy to see real people wearing our clothes,” added Zhang, who emphasized the fact that her clothes were not only reversible, but also have pockets and can be machine-washed. “We want to make a really amazing product that’s still affordable. ”

For the brand’s spring presentation on Thursday afternoon, Zhang and Lin had fresh-faced models pose in in faux art frames, which were each painted a different color. And much like an actual art show, the clothes required a studied, up-close view.

“In the end, though, it’s not art; it’s apparel,” said Lin. “You should be able to wear it and be comfortable in it.”